The following DIY documents the procedure to upgrade the US Ariel Atom with the correction for the dash reset problem. Almost all cars either had this change implemented when their car was built (estimated date of the change - December, 2006) or had a capacitor installed (on earlier cars), so this document is mostly for reference.
My lawyer wants you to know this:
Do not use this DIY unless you are familiar with basic automotive repair procedures and safe workshop practices. This DIY illustrates the workskop procedures required for the specific subject being documented in the DIY. It is not a substitute for full and up-to-date information from the engine and vehicle manufacturers, nor is it a substitute for proper training as an automotive technician. Note that it is not possible for me to anticipate all of the ways or conditions under which vehicles may be serviced or to provide cautions as to all of the possible hazards that may result.
The engine and vehicle manufacturers may continue to make changes, issue service information updates and parts retrofits after this DIY has been published. Some of these updates and retrofits will apply to procedures and specifications in this DIY.
I have endeavored to ensure the accuracy of the information in this DIY. Please note, however, that I cannot warrant the accuracy or completeness of the information contained in this DIY.
FOR THESE REASONS, I DO NOT MAKE ANY WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, THAT THE INFORMATION IN THIS DIY IS FREE OF ERRORS OR OMISSIONS, AND I EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, EVEN IF I HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND EVEN IF A PARTICULAR PURPOSE IS INDICATED IN THE DIY. I ALSO DISCLAIM ALL LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES THAT RESULT FROM ANY USE OF THE EXAMPLES, INSTRUCTIONS, OR OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS DIY.
Your common sense and good judgement are crucial to safe and successful service work. Read procedures thoroughly before starting them. Think about whether the condition of your car, your level of mechanical skill, or your level of reading comprehension might result in or contribute in some way to an occurrence which might cause you injury, damage your car, or result in an unsafe repair. If you have doubts for these or other reasons about your ability to perform safe repair work on your car, have the work done at a qualified repair shop.
This change requires disassembly of the fuse box and careful changes to the wires under the fuse box. Do not attempt this procedure unless you are sure of your ability to complete it properly. If you mess up, at the very least you'll have a car with no dashboard display, and potentially a car that won't even start.
- Start by disconnecting the negative side of the battery.
- On front bracket holding the fuse and relay boxes to the fiberglass box, remove the front three nuts and screws.
- On the same bracket remove the four screws into the fuse and relay boxes, remove bracket.
- On the rear bracket remove the four screws into the fuse and relay boxes. (You can do this with out removing the fiberglass nose piece.)
- Let the fun begin.
- Turn the fuse and relay boxes over. On the box closest to the immobilizer (right side of the car), you will see numbers and letters on the back side of the box.
- There's a pink jumper wire going from AA-5 to A8, remove pink wire from AA-5.
- To remove the terminal roll the fuse box over to the top, remove fuses from 5 and 8 [Note: this is what the instructions from Brammo said, but I think the correct fuse is 7]
- Next to the fuse on top there are two holes - push a pin removal tool or a paper clip in the hole to release the terminal.
- Remove terminal A-7.
- Solder the pink wire removed from AA-5 to the red/black wire from A-7.
- Install pink and red/black wire back into A-7, make sure the terminal clip is bent out so it will be secured in its slot.
- Install 15 amp fuse back into spot # 7, you don't have to reinstall fuse back into spot # 5.
- Reverse the process to reinstall fuse and relay boxes and battery cable.