Pleasant madness pervaded one lecture hall, where Dr. Max Lake,
an Australian vintner, held forth on the resemblance between sexual 
smells and the smells of cheese and wine.  Lake has written a series 
of paperback books entitled "Start to Taste," with the subheads, 
"Wine," "Food," and "People."  The people--taster's girth was 
Falstaffian, and he radiated an elephantine jollity.  "I've got into a 
fair amount of trouble doing my field research," he was confiding to 
some thirty people as I entered the room.  "Some years ago, I read of 
the laboratory studies of Masters and Johnson, particularly their 
observations of neck blushing, pupil dilation, and nipple erection, 
known to be some of the obvious signs of female sexual excitement.  
Sometime past, it was astonishing to notice just those three signs in 
a lovely lady in a thin silk shirt during the tasting of an excellent 
Chardonnay, a '76, from memory... Since undertaking the further 
development of my olfactory skills, I have been fortunate enough to 
have access to a sexual-order library, which, believe it or not, 
consists of little bottles in a laboratory.  One of the important 
human pheromones is isobutyraldehyde, which is the next relative in 
the carbon chain to the odor of bean sprouts.  Great champagne has 
many aldehyde tones.  There are also definite cheesy and sweaty notes. 
These middle-range fatty-acid smells characterize, in higher apes and 
human beings, the pheromones of the female in mid-cycle, and are also 
found, believe it or not, in several of the world's most delicious and 
expensive cheeses... I first became aware of a musky tone in ripe 
blackberry when I smelled it after some very musky Estee Lauder White 
Linen perfume on a certain lady.  A blackberry wine, of the Rhone 
Valley, and the smell of her forearm were strikingly similar.  This 
was confirmed by independent parties."